Forget everything you've heard about Venice -- it's probably false.
Do the canals stink? Rarely. Is it always flooded? Hardly, thanks to the MOSE flood barrier, which came into force in October 2020. Is it too busy to enjoy? Absolutely not.
See? The Venice naysayers are the Venice know-nothings. Of course, if you do what most tourists do -- come for the day, walk the same streets as everyone else to the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square, then cram onto the vaporetto (water bus) -- it can be unbearably crowded. But let's call that fair punishment for those who devote just one day to this unique city.
Of course, St. Mark's is knockout beautiful, but these days, the real Venice isn't in the square so grand that Napoleon called it "the living room of Europe." Nor is the real Venice on the Rialto, now surrounded by touristy shops and restaurants. That's no bad thing -- because it's everywhere else.
Just one block off the main drag that leads from the train station to St. Mark's via Rialto, you'll find artisans practicing centuries-old trades, marble-frilled churches where the altarpieces are by Titian and Tintoretto, and bars serving tramezzini (Venetian overstuffed sandwiches) and ombre (mini glasses of wine), where the Venetian dialect reigns supreme.
To see the real Venice takes time. Take Burano, for example. The island in the north lagoon is Instagram-famous for its colorful houses, so people snap some pictures and leave. Stay longer, though, and you'll get a feel for what's the longest-standing community in the lagoon -- it's been a fishing island since Roman times. Spend time on neighboring Torcello once the crowds have gone home, and you'll understand island life.
Most Venice visitors skip the museums and smaller churches, meaning they're all yours. The Fondazione Querini Stampalia has an incredible gallery, plus a modern wing by architect Carlo Scarpa. A Chorus Pass gets you into 17 of Venice's most spectacular churches for under $15 -- Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Sant'Alvise and San Sebastiano are unmissable.
Wherever you go, try to support local businesses. One way is to visit artisans, who are struggling to compete with cheap souvenir shops. Don't miss Paolo Olbi, who creates stationery with Venetian motifs in the Dorsoduro district, or glassblower Stefano Morasso on Giudecca island -- his work is modern, unique and less costly than the fancy factories on Murano. Once you see the real Venice, you'll never want to leave.
