What can we say about Florence? Only that everything is true.
ARTISANS, HIDDEN ART AND A JUNGLE-THEMED SLEEP |
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What can we say about Florence? Only that everything is true. The cradle of the Renaissance is so beautiful that there's a name for the fainting fits that can hit overwhelmed tourists: Stendhal syndrome. This is, of course, home to some of the world's most famous artworks: Botticelli's "Birth of Venus" sits in the Uffizi Gallery alongside works by Giotto, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci, while Michelangelo's David stands in the main square, Piazza della Signoria (it's a replica -- the original is in the city's Accademia gallery). The churches, from the famous Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella to the lesser-known Ognissanti and Brancacci Chapel, have been frescoed by the greatest names in art. Even the streets are masterpieces, with jaw-dropper palaces built for 15th-century nobility, and that grand brick cupola of the Duomo, or cathedral, dominating the landscape for miles around. Chances are you knew all that. What you might not know is that, despite its old-timey appearance, Florence isn't stuck in the past. There is a thriving modern side to the city, with contemporary art threaded through ancient buildings, an excellent food scene, and a new generation of artisans bringing centuries-old crafts into the present. Even the Uffizi is sliding the focus onto women and artists of color for the first time in its history. Plus, there's a clutch of sassy new boutique hotels run by locals, including FuordArno, where every piece of furniture was upcycled from the owner's nonna (grandmother). The Florentine renaissance is coming full circle. |
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If you're going for the art, try winter -- it's less busy, and you'll be mostly inside anyway. Or go in spring, when Florence's Renaissance gardens are in their prime. To really go back in time, be there for the annual Calcio Storico -- a "historic soccer" match played June 24, in centuries-old costumes, that's rather more violent than the current game. On Easter Day, stand outside the Duomo for the Scoppio del Carro ("Exploding Carriage"), where an elaborately dressed wagon becomes a fireworks display. |
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Uffizi Galleries Accademia Bargello museum Duomo Boboli Gardens Santa Croce |
| Villa Bardini garden Museo di San Marco Church of Ognissanti Palazzo Strozzi Museo Marino Marini Officina Creativa |
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Uffizi Galleries Accademia Bargello museum Duomo Boboli Gardens Santa Croce |
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Villa Bardini garden Museo di San Marco Church of Ognissanti Palazzo Strozzi Museo Marino Marini Officina Creativa |
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Eike Schmidt Uffizi Galleries director |
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"Don't try and see everything -- let yourself be guided by your heart. My favorite artwork? 'The Fall of the Rebel Angels' by Andrea Commodi. It's a powerful response to Michelangelo's 'Last Judgment' -- where Michelangelo painted a mass of figures ascending to heaven, Commodi shows us a mass of the damned who are falling towards Hell." |
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You'll get a taste of real Florence at this lovely, luxury B&B overlooking the old city walls. It's a 15-minute walk along the Arno to the Ponte Vecchio, and a couple of minutes on the tram from Santa Maria Novella. This was once the apartment of antiques dealer Pasquale Velona; his granddaughter Veronica now plays the consummate hostess to the four ultra-stylish suites upstairs, while the six rooms downstairs have more privacy, but no breakfast. Her hands-on help shows you the city through her eyes. |
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Across the river from Velona's Jungle is San Frediano, a traditional neighborhood that has yet to succumb to overtourism. This family-run trattoria is an institution, serving classic dishes overseen by Florentine grannies. Service is speedy, prices are more than reasonable, and the menu, which changes daily, is a superb roundup of traditional, hearty Tuscan food, including ribollita (see our wider Tuscany special in the fourth installment of this newsletter) and peposo dell'Impruneta, a rich beef stew. |
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Tomatoes first arrived in Italy in the Renaissance period, and they swiftly became a staple of Tuscan cuisine. Literally "tomato pap," pappa al pomodoro is one of Tuscany's flagship dishes. A sloppy mixture of tomatoes, bread and garlic, it's a delicious cross between soup and stew. Pair it with a Chianti, grown on the hills just outside town. |
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Read "A Room with a View," E.M. Forster's classic novel about a wide-eyed Englishwoman's first trip to Italy. Or watch the 1985 movie, starring a young Helena Bonham Carter and Daniel Day-Lewis. |
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Florence's famous T-bone steak is made from local Chianina beef, seasoned and served rare. Here's how to make it. |
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Had a memorable trip to Italy? 🍝 🏛️ 🍕 Share your photos with us on Instagram using the hashtag #unlockingitaly or email them to us at unlockingitaly@cnn.com. We may reach out to feature you. |
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